Archive for January, 2011

Overnight ride to Santa Marta

As I write this, we’re in a 90-minute layover at the Bucaramanga bus depot on the journey to the Caribbean coast. Nothing exciting about a bus depot so readers will have to settle for the above day-old photo from a supermercado in San Gil.

This journey was nearly made impossible by major floods that made global headlines 4 weeks ago. The road we’re about to take in the wee hours of 5-Jan was destroyed so badly that it was closed until just a few days ago. Colombia is a huge country – not only geographically but also in other ways I’ve seen in my working (for example,  Colombians represented about 7th among the nations traffic-wise on the Web). And it’s mountainous – if a major route is closed, the detour is so long you have to re-plan your whole itinerary.

Fortunately, our (well, to give proper credit, Luis’s) plans have gone smoothly every stop of the way. It almost feels like buses and taxis are waiting just for us, never more than a few minutes’ wait (aside from the lengthy connnection here).

In general, transportation has been better / faster / cheaper (pick all 3, you geeks) than in generalthe USA everywhere else I’ve been.

Well time to post this, Luis wants to go to the bus.


Cascadas de José Curi

We’re on a day trip 25km from San Gil. After a mucky 60-min hike, we declare the trip worth it!


What a difference a clear sinus makes

Does the availability of Vicks Nyquil and Vicks inhaler make a civilized country?

Before we headed out to Colombia, a close friend of mine asked me if the country we were visiting was civilized.  I was not quite sure what to make of his question, given how well-read he was, and how vague the question sounded to me.  Aboard Continental Airlines I absorbed all useful basic information about Colombia and Bogota to whip up my excitement, but with one reserve.  My sinuses were on the verge of getting clogged.  They did not affect my experience of flying, but my cold surely went bad on our first not-quite-comfortable night in a so-so hostel in the historic La Candelaria district of Bogota.  The icky bedsheet, blanket, and pillowcase, the occasional loud noises from passing pedestrians, vehicles, and yapping dogs on the narrow quaint street, and the stress on what type of person was sharing our room took a toll on my ability to sleep well, not to mention the high altitude (pulse was a little too high, I noticed) and my occasional sneezing and coughing.  Needless to say, my health was on a downhill trend.  What a way to start a three-night stay in Bogota!

A nice breakfast of cafe con leche and pastry at a coffee shop in the more bustling Centro, accomplishing the important errand of getting our SIM card, and checking into a far better 3-star hotel (Dann Hotel) seemed to have cast a promising spell to my health.  Only after realizing that two of the drogerias did not carry, let alone have heard of, my indispensable colds survival kits, aka Vicks Nyquil (heaven forbid they have heard of Dayquil) and Vicks inhaler, and that in my desperation I got a cough syrup (which contained an expectorant) instead, did my health turn for the worse.  Amazing how clogged sinuses, frequent pulsatile sneezing, and a constant need for toilet paper, tissue paper (panuelos) and handkerchief could make the difference between enjoying vs. tolerating every minute of my just-started vacation.  Add to that inhaling the fumes of a city that did not seem to have strict emission controls (fumes inhaled while visiting Plaza de Bolivar and rounding up La Candelaria, and checking out the New Year`s Eve events in El Centro and the financial district (capped by the Colpatria-sponsored outdoor concert)), and I was most certain that I would rather be back in cold Cambridge nursing my corhiza with a box of softer facial tissues, hot tea, DVDs, and my godsend Vicks products.

Somehow I had to enjoy our second day in Bogota and start the new year in better health, so, my disappointment with not getting Dimetapp or Sudafed notwithstanding, I got what the drogeria seller recommended and was resolved to end my misery with one tablet of Sinutab every 4 hours.  Despite the Palo Alto-perfect weather on the first day of 2011 atop Cerro Montserrate with a commanding view of the city, I was drowning in my upper respiratory tract fluids.  I had to avoid embarrassing myself from sneezing and nose-blowing in my tiny little nook in the Internet cafe reorganizing our accommodation plans for the next three stops in our trip.  Even after downing cups of cafe con leche and mouthfuls of arepa, papas, and pollo asado (thank God I still had an appetite), my misery seemed interminable.  Who cares about taking the still-expanding Trans Milenio bus line and exploring Chapinero, when all I wanted was just to get better?  After four tablets of  Sinutab, I went to my safe hotel cocoon, hoping to recover but resigned to the fact that I never enjoyed Bogota with clearer sinuses.

Well at least I got to enjoy our last few hours in the city as soon as I realized I slept through several hours without sneezing and clearing my nose!  Thanks to Sinutab, or just the natural course of incubation and recovery, I went to the Terminal de Transporte by taxi and took the seven-hour bus ride to San Gil with the brighest and merriest of perspectives!  I was enjoying every minute of my vacation!  I do not remember sneezing and blowing my nose in the entire bus trip and was not the least bit bothered by the cold temperature in the bus.  I was back in my element–taking pictures, reading the guidebook, and just simply enjoying the scenery and the sociocultural landscape–and was convinced that an integral part of enjoying a vacation is good health.  Indeed a heck of a difference when you are drowning in a runny nose and an interminable cold.


San Gil in the morning

After a too-long bus journey yesterday, we checked in here around 20:30 last night. This hostel has a wonderful roof deck where you’ll find a breakfast of fruits, huevos, and corn-meal pancakes.


Bogota departure

As we pack up for San Gil, the clear sky over Bogotá beckons. (View from Hotel Dann Av 19.)


Feliz Año – Bogota

2011 finds me south of the border – just shy of the equator in fact. Luis and I chose Colombia for this year’s escape to the tropics. Colombia is well known for which agricultural product? Yes, you guessed it – coffee! We should be all set for our 12 days here.

I wanted to compose this at a proper keyboard but on 1-Jan the choices of local Internet cafes led us to a dingy overcrowded mall basement stocked with Pentium 4s from another era. I looked up the APN for this mobile provider (Comcel), put it in my phone, fiddled with it unsuccessfully for a bit, put it away. Many hours later, lo and behold, I get an email notification out on the streets of Chapinero. I have a connection while it’s still 1 Jan!

No photos on this first entry. We got here 48 hours ago after an 8-hour trip. The first lodging was at a hostel; we’re now at the Hotel Dann on Calle 19. For New Year’s Eve we walked to the Colpatria building and found an outdoor concert. At 22:45 Luis wanted to return to the hotel where the desk clerk offered us a glass of wine. We watched TV coverage for the 2011 countdown on channel 10 – the same concert we’d just left.

Today we took the funicalar up Monserrat to see the gorgeous view of this city of 7.5 million. Then we went to an Internet cafe to adjust hotel bookings at San Gil and Santa Marta over the next few days.

Naturally there were food stops along the way. Luis will write more eloquently on those!

Looking forward to San Gil!


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